For lights, we use every available light source we can think of. There are a variety of lights out there that produce some neat effects and you should look for things that are battery operated and portable. Lights that are pointed at the camera or have their source exposed I refer to as “brushes”. For brushes, LED’s are great for sharp lines and can be bought in strings of 10 or 20 in variety of colors or in the form of a torch. Attach one or more strings to a stick to create a ribbon effect or a hula hoop that can be rolled or moved to create all sorts of neat effects. LED and xenon flashlights are great for writing in larger spaces with LED giving off a colder blue light and xenon providing a warmer golden light. EL wire creates a smoky effect and is good for filling up empty space in the frame. Neon tubes or cold cathodes create a broad ribbon like effect and can be bought at automotive stores. They are usually 12v and plug in to the cigar lighter socket in the car. To make them portable you need to provide 12v. Just chop off the car socket plug and replace it with 1X9v and 2XAA batteries which add up to 12v. Don’t forget to add in a switch. I use pressure switches which turn something on when pushed only like a can of spray paint works only when pushed. You can wire these switches into any of these lights that you will use as brushes as they make using them that much easier but it is not necessary. Armed with these the sky is the limit.
Lighting the location or subjects requires different light sources. For this you will need tools for what I refer to as “surface painting”. This means that the light source will be hidden from the camera and the light it provides will be used to “paint” a surface. I recommend a flashes, xenon or LED torches, and some theater gels to add color. These can be used from out of the frame or in the frame but pointing away from the camera. If the source is still visible when pointed away from the camera block it with your hand or body. Attach the gels in front of the light to change its color. They can be found at any theatre supply store or large camera store. If you cannot find proper gels they can be made by coloring any transparent plastic with color permanent markers. The hard thin card-like plastic often found in product packaging works great for this. I also use this for attaching the gels to flashes. With colorful light sources you can now light up and alter the color of elements in the scene. Ambient light from the moon or nearby street lights can also provide location lighting. Test shots will help you determine the correct white balance and what exposure time you have to work with. For human subjects, you can use flashes like you would with any portraiture work or use a flashlight for a more surreal effect. Flashing a surface behind the subject will leave a neat silhouette. You can jump in the air a pop the flash while in mid air to freeze the silhouette of you jumping. If you choose to use a flashlight, the subject must remain still to avoid blur. Sitting the subject down or having them lean against something will help with this. I personally avoid applying color to subjects and leave them a natural color. When lighting them with a torch hold it close to them for a surreal effect or farther back for a shadowless spotlight look.
In the end, anything that emits any light can be used. Experimentation is the key. Try everything you can get your hands on and swing, spin, throw, and move in every way to see what effects it can achieve. After you have done that alter its color with gels or customize the switches to fit your needs.
For camera equipment, we currently shoot with Canon gear. We bring multiple bodies that include 2×400D, a 40D, and a 5D Mark ii. We usually use ultra-wide angle lens both from Tokina and Canon. Cable releases, tripods, inverter for 110v power and a variety of other stuff fill up the van.
